Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay is an hour (50km) by ferry from downtown Buenos Aires. This makes it a great day trip destination for Argentinians and for weary travellers to spend a long weekend.
I realised I was in need of a break after walking around Buenos Aires, and feeling slightly teary about everything. So much to buy! So many choices! A classic sign of reverse culture shock. Luckily my plans already pointed to Uruguay; all I needed to do now was upgrade my hostel bunk bed for a large fluffy hotel bed with plenty of pillows, housekeeping and a view. Read more
I left Vancouver as the co-pilot on a sea plane – just in case I was needed… and skidded down 15 minutes later in the harbour of Silva Bay, Gabriola Island in a wash of sea water as the plane taxied in to the dock. As I was seated next to the pilot for the flight, I had the best view in the 6 seater plane, and my first impressions of Gabriola Island were of sun-dappled tall green cedar and fir trees on top of large boulders which lined the harbour. Tangled up in the rocks were sun-bleached logs so characteristic of Canadian west coast beaches. Read more
I have already started to catalogue the things I will miss most about leaving here. Today I paid rent for my apartment here for the last time, and I walked home hyper-aware of the clumble of cars across the cobblestoned streets, the sky, heavy with clouds behind the rounded church domes and the street carts selling elotes, tacos and tlayudas to people patiently waiting for their buses after a long day. It feels weird to think that soon my everyday life will be completely different. Read more
Oaxaca has some fantastic street food, and most people living here have a favourite meal and or snack, and street cart from which to buy it. Street food vendors all have their own designated area – important so there are no disputes, and doubly important so you can easily find your preferred vendor.
Elotes (e-lot-tays) and esquites (es-key-tays) are basically corn with toppings. This functional description however belies their deliciousness. Think corn kernels, charcoal-charred and smoky-sweet, combined with salty cheese, a hit of chilli and the tang of lime. Hungry? Read more
Using a metate (stone grinding table) is ridiculously hard work! Having spent 7 months in Oaxaca now, I have seen metates in many different traditional kitchens, but I had never considered the strength (and endurance) you must have to use one! Grinding chilis and other spices into a fine paste so they could be used in a mole (mol-lay), I had managed to get a sweat up and half my ingredients were still not pulverised. I will never look at mole the same way again. Read more