Colourful Valparaiso

Sunday, Valparaiso city centre, 2 hours north of Santiago. I have just taken a creaking and groaning rickety wooden funicular up one of Valparaiso's steep hills - saving myself from climbing literally hundreds of concrete stairs to the top. My plan is to wander through the neighbourhood at the top, crossing into the next neighbourhood … Continue reading Colourful Valparaiso

Sunday in San Telmo

Sunday in Buenos Aires, the place to visit is the neighbourhood of San Telmo. Every Sunday thousands of people, Porteños and foreigners alike, browse the hundreds of market stalls, sit and chat over cafe con leche, hunt for that special antique piece, buy leatherwork, eat choripan (a loaded chorizo hot dog) and marvel at the … Continue reading Sunday in San Telmo

Riding like a Gaucho

It wasn’t so much that my legs hurt, everything hurt. I dismounted from the saddle and staggered around the horse, removing sheepskin, gaucho saddle, cinches and blankets before removing the halter and allowing my horse to wander the inside paddock for the remainder of the evening. I had successfully completed my first day as a … Continue reading Riding like a Gaucho

How To Beat Reverse Culture Shock

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay is an hour (50km) by ferry from downtown Buenos Aires. This makes it a great day trip destination for Argentinians and for weary travellers to spend a long weekend. I realised I was in need of a break after walking around Buenos Aires, and feeling slightly teary about everything. So much … Continue reading How To Beat Reverse Culture Shock

Scenes Through Bus Windows II: San Pedro de Atacama, Chile to Salta, Argentina

It was a good thing I had done a trial walk to the bus station from my hostel - the bus station was not in fact the dusty parking lot the bus had dropped us in arriving in San Pedro de Atacama. Noooo it was much much further away. Always a good thing to realise … Continue reading Scenes Through Bus Windows II: San Pedro de Atacama, Chile to Salta, Argentina