Sunday in Buenos Aires, the place to visit is the neighbourhood of San Telmo. Every Sunday thousands of people, Porteños and foreigners alike, browse the hundreds of market stalls, sit and chat over cafe con leche, hunt for that special antique piece, buy leatherwork, eat choripan (a loaded chorizo hot dog) and marvel at the street entertainers and (of course) the incredible tango performances. Read more
It wasn’t so much that my legs hurt, everything hurt. I dismounted from the saddle and staggered around the horse, removing sheepskin, gaucho saddle, cinches and blankets before removing the halter and allowing my horse to wander the inside paddock for the remainder of the evening. I had successfully completed my first day as a gaucho on a working sheep and cattle ranch in northern Uruguay. What a fantastic day! Read more
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay is an hour (50km) by ferry from downtown Buenos Aires. This makes it a great day trip destination for Argentinians and for weary travellers to spend a long weekend.
I realised I was in need of a break after walking around Buenos Aires, and feeling slightly teary about everything. So much to buy! So many choices! A classic sign of reverse culture shock. Luckily my plans already pointed to Uruguay; all I needed to do now was upgrade my hostel bunk bed for a large fluffy hotel bed with plenty of pillows, housekeeping and a view. Read more
It was a good thing I had done a trial walk to the bus station from my hostel – the bus station was not in fact the dusty parking lot the bus had dropped us in arriving in San Pedro de Atacama. Noooo it was much much further away. Always a good thing to realise before toting a 17.5kg pack, a daypack and a full water bottle (What? Those things are heavy!).
The bus was meant to leave San Pedro de Atacama at 9:30am. As 10:30am neared, and factoring in a 10-11 hour bus ride, I was pretty sure I would be trying to navigate my way around Salta (sans the correct currency) about midnight… Read more
After a harrowing 8 hour bus trip from Sucre to Uyuni, I was relieved just to be off the bus and on firm ground again. Our bus driver literally raced another bus the entire trip, jockeying for position and momentarily overtaking before screeching to a stop to pick up passengers and then we rocketed off again. Read more